We started paddline at 7 am and reached this break within two hours. Early in the morning it was kind of high tide and the clouds hadn't burned off yet. By the afternoon the sun was out and the tide was draining out to reveal 4-5 ft rights that peeled for over 100 yards. We surfed our brains out and by 6pm the tide had switched and it went completely flat. We were satisfied to say the least. We scored great waves by ourselves all day.
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I went out to Del Mar Housing Projects to get my long lens port dialed in for this weeks festivities in the ocean realm. While out there I skated around and shot some images around the shop. Big swell headed this weekend, hopefully not it delivers and we aren't all just hyping it up way too much.
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Days until I go back to Indonesia. Lets see if I can get out of the bubble that is "SoCal" before then. Living in the moment yet reflecting on the past and looking forward to the future. Enjoy
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Life goes by really really fast. Days blur together to create a moment of existence you can't really recall.
Me n my good friend Cody have been getting super artsy all week. He has been recovering from a broken back, and I have been helping out the kid. Anyway here is some artsy shit for you kids to enjoy....
